AUSTIN--Thursday night at SXSW was cold and wet, marring a terrific
second-night lineup of music. It was another pleasant Texas spring day until
5pm, when a cold front came along with his good friend, Mr. Tornado. No cell
phones were sucked into the funnel cloud, thank God, but from then on out, it
was cold, windy and rainy.
I also discovered this wonderful town's only flaw, as I spent 90 minutes
marooned in the wilds of North Austin waiting for a cab that never came. By
the time I got back to civilization, I had missed Ray Price, who must have
been performing "Crazy Arms" outside in Waterloo Park in some pretty funky
weather. And by the time I scarfed down some free music-journalist grub
(tasty barbecue courtesy of the Americana Music Association), I had missed
Wanda Jackson. Shucks.
But I caught the Li'l Band of Gold, an amazing conglomeration of the finest
musicians in Lafayette, Louisiana. I sidled up to Peter Schwarz, Cajun bass
player-turned-University of Texas grad student, for the scoop.
Sixty-three-year-old drummer/vocalist Warren Storm is a local legend; he
played drums on Excello records back in the day, by the likes of Slim Harpo,
and released a few now-prized rockabilly singles as a vocalist. His voice is
still incredible--he crooned ballads like nobody's business and then rocked
his way through a blistering "Lucille," all while laying down a perfect
Louisiana groove that made everyone in the packed Continental Club wiggle.
Up front we have roots-rocker Charles "C.C." Adcock, who supplies a
never-ending supply of rock 'n' roll attitude and guitar playing that is
simply mean--little girls get their pigtails pulled when he plays a solo.
Next to him, on the button accordion, is Steve Riley, leader of the mighty
Mamou Playboys, one of the world's best Cajun bands. Storm, Adcock and Riley
give the band three charismatic lead singers (although I swear that Steve
Riley looks more like Chris Gaines every time I see him). Mamou Playboy
fiddler David Greeley (aging nicely like a Cajun Harrison Ford) made up one
third of a jumping saxophone section, David Egan of File handled the piano,
and Sonny Landreth's bass player held down the bottom.
This was the band's first performance outside of its home state, and it's
safe to say the club was full of Li'l Band of Gold diggers by the time they
finished. The band's first album is due out on Shanachie in the next few
months, so if you love good ol' swampy Louisiana rock 'n' roll music, you owe
it to yourself to check it out.
The delightful Hot Club of Cowtown was up next. No strangers to the
Continental Club, the Austin-based three-piece grinned from ear to ear as
they swung their way through a set of chamber-Western-swing. Both the band's
singers are gifted with that old-time knack for lazily singing behind the
beat, and the nimble jazzy hollow-body electric guitar and fiddle were a
treat.
A quick cab ride and we were back at Stubb's again, checking out the
evening's "surprise guest," who turned out to be Ryan Adams of Whiskeytown.
The guy is one of the greatest songwriters around today and a heartbreakingly
beautiful singer in the Gram Parsons mode, but better. Adams simply sat on a
chair with his acoustic guitar, backed by vocalist Kim Richey, and performed
a few selections from his upcoming solo album. Adams was in fine voice, but
the batch of mostly slow tearjerkers wasn't doing enough to raise the
temperature at the Stubb's outdoor bandshell, so we headed to the warmth of
the Caucus Club, where the owner/artists of Nashville's Dead Reckoning label
were holding court.
By the time we got there, Kevin Welch and Kieran Kane were both properly
loose and well-lubricated as they traded songs before a beyond-packed house.
Welch performed one of his best songs, "Life Down Here on Earth," to an
impromptu drunken soft-shoe by new labelmate David Olney (in fairness to
Dave, he may have only been pretending to do a drunken soft-shoe). "There's
gonna be two dates on your tombstone," Welch sang, "all your friends will
read 'em/But all that's gonna matter is/That little dash between 'em." True
enough.
Back across the street, I got through about half of Steve Earle's set at
Stubb's before hypothermia set in. He was in full rock mode, performing
material from his upcoming record, spiced with a few classics. At the same
venue where the Damnations had sounded so great before, this time the sound
had some serious problems and the performance was uninspired. But I'm sure it
was cold for them, too, so I'll cut 'em some slack.
I was about roots-rocked out by this point, so I decided to catch Apples in
Stereo before I hit the hay. The Denver-based quintet started a little late,
prompting a few grunts of disapproval from the chilly crowd, but eventually
delivered a fun show of catchy psychedelic pop. I dug, although the clouds
burst open again right before they began, and the Waterloo Brewing Company's
tent leaked.
But Patti Smith gave the best performance I saw on Thursday, and she didn't
even play any music. For an hour-and-a-half in a ballroom at the Austin
Convention Center, Patti spoke with Chuck Philips of the L.A. Times before an
adoring audience about Vietnam, prayer, rock 'n' roll, politics and the music
business, as well as her album "Gung Ho," which comes out Tuesday.
Smith was a bit scattered at the outset (she later cited a rare post-show
tequila the night before as the possible culprit), but soon warmed up.
Philips surprised Smith by pulling out a question faxed in from her longtime
patron, Clive Davis, citing "Gung Ho"'s initial strong reviews and asking her
to compare the work to her classic seventies recordings.
She demurred: "I'm living in the present; it's up to other people to compare.
Forget about the seventies or eighties or nineties. We're living in the
twenty-first century--there is work to be done; there is fun to be had."
Amen.
Smith will perform tonight in Waterloo Park, immediately following kindred
spirits the Alejandro Escovedo Orchestra. It ought to be something. Smith
spoke eloquently of the importance of prayer in her life, so I'm going to
commence praying for the sun to come out and shine on Alejandro and Patti
tonight. Also on my short list: Whiskeytown, Hank Williams III, Gomez, Roger
McGuinn, Jimmie Dale Gilmore, Joe Ely, Elliott Smith--there's going to be
some awfully tough choices. Read all about it Saturday.