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The Current Season
 
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daily notes from the underground COUNTRY COUSINS
It's surreal--but fun--to see alt.country acts perform in a city where country is the norm and everything else is the alternative
by Joshua Klein

AUSTIN--With all of the attendees present by Thursday, the SXSW festival really begins in earnest. Everywhere you look someone is adorned with the red festival badge, which gains you access to most of the convention events and shows. Music is pouring out of clubs as early as noon as bands try to squeeze a short set into every conceivable time slot. There's no practical strategy to club-hopping. Shows are scattered all over town, so you have to struggle to catch at least a portion of each desired event.

Word begins to spread about shows that could be too crowded to comfortably see. Artists such as The Jayhawks and Steve Earle have large enough followings to make even a typical concert night pretty tight, let alone one hyped by the concentrated excitement of SXSW. Fortunately some of SXSW's biggest draws could be seen in more accessible, albeit less musical, surroundings. Earle gave the festival's keynote address Thursday morning to a mostly packed auditorium, though the country maverick's fifteen-minute speech left the audience hanging.

Since emerging from a drug-related jail stint in the early nineties and recording some of the strongest music of his career, Earle's profile has changed from an outlaw to a politically active music historian. Earle had no shortage of outrage for the music industry, and his address stressed how hard it has been in the past for him to make the music he wanted to make before he briefly moved on to broader issues such as the death penalty and the proliferation of land mines.

Later during an onstage interview, punk legend Patti Smith was far more explicit in her disdain for some of the more commercial aspects of rock 'n' roll, though she did exclude her heroes Bob Dylan and the Rolling Stones from the discussion. Yet the frazzled and nervous Smith shed little light on the miraculous sustenance of her own 25-year career, which has survived numerous deaths, tragedies and passing trends. Elsewhere, at an outdoor party that also featured the eerie country jazz of Shivaree, Leeds' The Mekons showed how its own 20-plus years of dubious dealings with the music business has only made it stronger.

As the sun set and ominous storm clouds moved in--a tornado watch was briefly in effect--everyone nonetheless was ready for night number two. Weather be damned, it's difficult to resist the pull of good music. The Bloodshot Records showcase began early and took up two stages. It was surreal to see the label's mostly Midwestern stable of alt.country acts performing in a city where country is the norm and everything else is the alternative. But, predictably, the rollicking Riptones, The Unholy Trio, and their labelmates seemed perfectly comfortable performing in such a strong rebel country enclave.

At the completely opposite end of the spectrum was the Welsh outfit Gorky's Zygotic Mynci, a band whose eclectic songcraft could best be described as David Bowie meets Brian Wilson. Despite its relatively shy disposition and some minor technical glitches, the group gelled once the music began. Its psychedelic arrangements and reserved stage presence stood in stark contrast to the preceding set by New Wet Kojak, a black-clad Girls Against Boys spinoff that was all too happy to rip off The Fall and probably pretentious enough to think it was doing a better job.

A few blocks over, Philadelphia's Marah was demonstrating its growth from a wild bar band to a somewhat more mature roots rock outfit. Of course, the group hasn't really mellowed that much, and Marah played like it had just learned the joys of electric guitar. The band's passionate set demonstrated real star power, and the members of Marah--their breath visible in the surprising cold--effortlessly had the crowd dancing on the muddy natural floor of Stubb's.

Rumors began to circulate that the special guest on the Stubb's bill was some huge star, a Lucinda Williams or even Neil Young. When Whiskeytown's Ryan Adams and singer Kim Richey emerged for a brief acoustic set, the energy level of the crowd dropped off and the night chill began to kick in. Thankfully the topper was Earle himself, previewing material from his upcoming independently released album.

Despite the weather's downturn and the toll of too much music/food/beer in too little time, smiles were abundant throughout Austin. The important thing to remember amidst all the hoopla is just how much fun the festival is designed to be. Though 7,000 registrants are on hand, there are hundreds of other random festival-goers from around the country also excited about the options that abound. And while the specter of commerce continues to loom over the showcases and convention panels, it still all boils down to the music, which is, safe to say, strong as ever.

For complete Newcity.com coverage of SXSW 2000, click here.

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