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The Current Season
 
sxsw beat
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daily notes from the underground ROADSHOW
After an overdose of country, rock and country-rock, one SXSW listener finds salvation in a cab driver's tape deck
by Dave Chamberlain

AUSTIN--I saw fifteen bands play Saturday night, and the only one that really impressed me was one that didn't play, that wasn't going to play, one that didn't even have a name that I heard.

After spending the day at Pok-E-Joe's BBQ for the Hideout party (another Chicago music venue, possibly the next Lounge Ax-like club), watching band after band of country music, I actually felt like I was doing myself good. Several of the bands are from Chicago, though for some reason I'd never been at the right place at the right time to see them.

Cowlily, a Natalie Merchant-like band with stronger country music overtones, was very impressive. Same goes for Nora O'Conner; a former guitarist for the Blacks, I hadn't seen Nora's present solo project, and I was blown away. Between herself, Andrew Bird (sans Bowl of Fire) and Pinetop Seven's bass player Ryan Hembrey, the collaboration—though perhaps in its infancy musically—was as fresh a country sound as Chicago has produced since the Blacks.

As usual, Split Lip Rayfield set the stage on fire, the tank fiddle, guitar, mandolin and banjo all shooting sparks from the speedmetal bluegrass. The party, packed with blissfully unpretentious music folks, was a sort of coming of age for the Hideout, and owners Tim and Katie solidified not only the club's presence in Chicago, but the Austin-Chicago connection as well.

Several other bands, however, were unimpressive. The Austin Music Hall's "special guest" was Bevis Frond, and the band's faux-psychedelic banter left the crowd empty. Philadelphia's funk punk band The Delta 72 smoked the stage, but that gave way to Modest Mouse, a kiddie favorite (and Janeane Garafalo's as well, who was present), but I walked out without an impression one way or the other.

Off to Antone's for Calexico, which was against my better judgment, since the band usually only is composed of Joey Burns and John Convertino, and the two can't reproduce its records with only drums and guitar. But although the band played as a two-piece for a while, eventually the stage was full of horn players and more backing musicians, making for a quality performance. After Calexico came the Mekons, who pretty much put on the same show they've been putting on for the past 25 years: not great, not horrible, just milquetoast.

But the score was from--of all places--my cab ride home. The driver was a very friendly Ethiopian man who had a tape of his reggae band playing in the car. I never got his name, but under his medium-length dreads was a big smile and a very soothing voice. And God bless it, after a day of country, rock, rock and more country, reggae was like a cool glass of water in the desert. We talked about bands he and I have seen, (Sizzla, Capleton, Buju Banton), and we talked about his own reggae band. (He even brought up the Wild Hare, justifying the Chicago club's claim to be the most famous reggae bar in America.)

And therein lies my problem. Why are all the bands down here so damn 1985? We are in the year 2000, and the Internet has shrunk the world to fit in the palm of a hand, and still SXSW clings to rock and country (to be fair, there's a good amount of hip-hop, but it's all white-friendly). Small bands are buried by proven crowd pleasers, any genre of music not universally liked by critics and rock people does not even get a token appearance.

So many bands, so many musicians, so much talent, and the only thing I really wanted to hear was my Ethiopian cab driver's reggae. I don't know what his band is called, but the ten minutes of it I heard had more heart and soul than any band I've seen in Austin.

For complete Newcity.com coverage of SXSW 2000, click here.

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