After years of reticence, and perhaps without a sufficiently compelling concept to engage his eclectic, peripatetic taste and intelligence, chef Paul Kahan’s “Cheers to the Publican, Repast and Present: Recipes and Ramblings from an American Beer Hall,” dropped after two decades of his influential work first shimmered into the culinary spotlight with the opening of Blackbird in 1997. Writing with clarity and fervor (with co-writers Cosmo Goss and Rachel Holtzman), “Cheers” rollicks with flavor and generosity to all the many, many collaborators who made the food emanating from the temple to “oysters, pork and beer” the worthy success that it remains. An effusion from Nancy Silverton, co-owner of Los Angeles’ Mozza, is generous and true: “Now I know how Paul packs so much flavor into his food. The effort he puts into sourcing and his balance of seasoning, marinating, cooking, and saucing is what turns his cooking into a concert of flavor. These recipes are so clearly written they will be easy to make at home. This is the most delicious book I’ve ever read.”
