Its almost off-puttingly whimsical name falls in the background after discovering Table, Donkey and Stick and its delightful echo of an Alpine inn just off Logan Square. The inspiration is a Brothers Grimm story about three siblings who leave home to apprentice for a carpenter, a miller and a turner. “The carpenter pays the first brother with a table that magically sets itself with rustic delicacies, which is promptly stolen by a wicked innkeeper,” as TDS’ site regales the meaty myth. “The miller gives the second brother a donkey that shits gold coins at the word ‘bricklebrit.’ The innkeeper robs him too. The third brother receives from the turner a magical stick which beats the innkeeper until he returns the table and donkey.” And somehow from that, proprietor-sommelier Matt Sussman orchestrated these unique and slightly sinister delights. The always-fragrant castle of charcuterie, working with local farmers and whole animals where possible, winner in September of its sixth consecutive Bib Gourmand from the Michelin Guide, devises seasonally driven dishes from the European mountain cuisines, including France, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, Germany and Slovenia. There are lots of food establishments in my Twitter feed, but any and every dispatch from their menu (@Tabledonkeyinn) stands out: picture “Dry aged beef, grit croquettes, carrots, black truffle”; “beautiful porchetta di testa from a heritage American Guinea Hog”; “House bratwurst, corn spaetzle, petite herbs.” Better: taste them. There’s no room to talk up Sussman’s intense and precise wine selection, but consider the Monday night specials that recently included six-dollar beef bourguignon burgers. (Ray Pride) 2728 W. Armitage, 773.486.8525, tabledonkeystick.com
